Application of design of experiments in the development of cosmetic formulation based on natural ingredients


Gabriela Maria D’Angelo Costa1, Georgia de Assis Dias Alves1, Patrícia Maria Berardo Gonçalves Maia Campos1*1
Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences of Ribeirão Preto, University of São Paulo, Ribeirão Preto, Brazil

Development of cosmetic formulations based on natural ingredients presents a challenge in order to instability and sensory limitations of raw ingredients. Organogel which is a cold emulsifier and offers refined sensory properties, physical-chemical characteristics and stability could be solved this limitation. The aim of this study is to develop cosmetic formulations by cold process containing natural ingredients and assess through the design of experiment (DOE) the influencing factors on the physical-mechanical and sensory properties of these formulations. Physico-mechanical and sensory properties of cosmetic formulations containing natural ingredients obtained by cold process were evaluated. The DOE was performed for the texture analyses. In addition, the influence of natural actives substances in the developed formulations was assessed. The different concentrations of polymers, organogel and active substances influenced the texture profile of the formulations, being the concentration of organogel the most influential factor. The formulation containing sunflower oil, a polymer from a natural source
and the highest concentration of organogel influenced the firmness, consistency, cohesiveness and viscosity. The work of shear decreased in the formulation added of the polymer and increased when the formulation was supplemented with active substances. The sensory analysis showed that the formulation based on 5% of organogel, sunflower oil and polymer it was preference for the selected formulation. In conclusion, the application of DOE for the rational development of cosmetic formulations based on natural ingredients led to formulations with physico-mechanical and sensory properties suitable for the application on the skin.
Keywords: DOE, Organogel, Texture Profile, Sensory Properties, Cosmetics

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